Android Not Charging: How to Get Your Phone Powering Up Again

Android not charging? I walk through the cable swap, port cleaning, and restart steps I actually use to get a dead phone powering up again in minutes.

You plug in your Android overnight, confident it will be full by morning, then wake up to 3%. The reason “Android not charging” is one of the most-searched phone problems is that the symptom looks identical whether the cause is a worn cable, lint packed into the port, or a one-off software glitch. The good news is that most charging failures are something you can fix at home in under five minutes.

I have repaired this exact issue on my own Pixel and on a dozen friends’ Samsungs, and the cause is almost never a dead phone. Work through the checks below in order, because they run from most common to most involved, and you can stop the moment charging resumes.

Quick Answer

Plug in a different USB-C or Micro-USB cable and adapter first, since faulty cables cause most Android charging failures. If that does not help, restart the phone, wait 60 seconds, and try again with the cable connected. Most people fix the problem within these two steps alone.

Why won’t my Android charge at all?

In nearly every case I have seen, the culprit is the cheapest part of the setup: the cable. Third-party and frayed cables look fine but deliver an intermittent connection, so the phone reads it as “no power.” A clogged port, a weak power source, or a frozen charging chip cover most of the rest.

Before blaming the phone itself, rule out the cable, the port, and the wall outlet in that order.

How do I test the cable and adapter?

The charging cable is the single most common point of failure. The first time my phone “died,” I spent an hour cleaning the port before a $4 spare cable fixed it in seconds, so now I always swap the cable first.

  1. Test with a cable you know charges another device reliably.
  2. Plug the adapter straight into a wall outlet, because laptop USB ports and power strips often do not deliver enough current.
  3. If the phone charges with the new cable, throw the original away.

Use a cable rated to your phone’s charging standard. An underpowered cable charges slowly, runs hot, and wears out the connector over time.

A known-good cable plugged into a wall outlet rules out the most common cause in under a minute.

How do I clean a charging port that won’t take a cable?

Pocket lint compacts inside the USB-C or Micro-USB port over months of use and stops the cable making full contact. I shine a phone flashlight into the port first; the packed debris usually looks grey or beige and fills the back of the opening.

  1. Power the phone off completely.
  2. Use a wooden toothpick or a dry interdental brush, never metal.
  3. Gently loosen debris around the port edges and avoid the center pins.
  4. Follow with two or three short puffs of canned air held upright.
  5. Reconnect the cable and check whether it seats more firmly than before.

If the port looks visibly bent or corroded, cleaning will not help; skip ahead to the battery-health check and arrange a port replacement.

A toothpick and canned air clear the lint that blocks contact without risking the delicate pins.

Can a restart really fix charging?

Yes, and it is the step most people skip too quickly. A software crash can freeze the charging subsystem entirely, and a full restart clears that fault in about 60 seconds. I have watched a phone that “refused” to charge come right back the instant it rebooted.

  1. Hold Power, or Power and Volume Down on many models, until the restart menu appears.
  2. Tap Restart and wait for the phone to boot fully.
  3. Plug in the charger and watch for the charging indicator within 10 seconds.

A 60-second reboot resolves a surprising share of charging failures, so always try it before anything harder.

Could the power source be the problem?

A faulty wall outlet, an overloaded surge protector, or an underpowered USB hub can all block charging with no obvious sign. Unplug the adapter and test it in a different wall outlet on a separate circuit before you assume the phone is at fault.

Swap to a different wall outlet to rule out a dead socket masquerading as a dead phone.

How do I check USB mode and battery settings?

When connected to a computer, Android can quietly switch to “File transfer” mode, which trickle-charges or stops charging altogether. I have been caught by this more than once after plugging into a laptop for a quick sync.

  1. Connect to a PC, then pull down the notification shade.
  2. Tap the USB notification (“Charging this device via USB” or similar).
  3. Select Charging only, sometimes labeled “No data transfer.”

Then open Settings > Battery and confirm Battery Saver is not capping the charge at a set percentage. Samsung, Xiaomi, and some other skins include this option, and it can look exactly like a charging failure.

Forcing “Charging only” mode and checking Battery Saver fixes the cases where the phone is working as designed but not as you expected.

How do I know if an app is blocking charging?

A rogue downloaded app can interfere with power management. Safe Mode disables every third-party app without deleting anything, which isolates whether software is the cause.

  1. Hold the Power button, then long-press Power off on screen until “Reboot to safe mode” appears, and tap OK. Exact steps vary by manufacturer.
  2. Plug in the charger. If it charges normally in Safe Mode, an installed app is the culprit.
  3. Restart normally and uninstall recently added apps one at a time until charging holds.

If the phone charges in Safe Mode but not normally, a recently installed app is to blame.

What if it still won’t charge after all that?

Lithium-ion batteries degrade over hundreds of charge cycles. After two to three years of daily use, a battery may charge sporadically or refuse to charge at all.

  1. Dial *#*#4636#*#* on many Samsung, Motorola, and stock Android phones to open a hidden battery information screen.
  2. Check whether Status shows “Charging” while plugged in. If it reads “Discharging” with a cable connected, the battery or charging circuit needs professional service.
  3. Contact your phone’s manufacturer or a local repair shop. Battery replacements typically cost $30 to $80 depending on the model.

A “Discharging” reading on a plugged-in phone points to failing hardware that needs a shop, not another home fix.

Which charging speed should my Android hit?

Using the wrong adapter tier is a frequent reason charging feels broken when it is actually just very slow. This table shows what to expect from each method.

Charging Method Typical Wattage Approx. Time to Full
Standard 5W adapter 5W 3 to 4 hours
Quick Charge 3.0 / 4.0 18 to 27W 60 to 90 minutes
Super / Warp / Turbo Charge 33 to 65W 30 to 50 minutes
Laptop USB-A port 2.5 to 5W 4 to 6+ hours
Wireless Qi (standard) 5 to 15W 2 to 3 hours

See Qualcomm’s Quick Charge overview for wattage specs on QC-certified chargers.

If your phone supports fast charging but you are on a 5W brick, slow charging is expected, not a fault.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

  • Grabbing any USB-C cable nearby. A data-only cable may charge at 5W even on a 65W adapter. Fix: use the cable that shipped with your phone or one rated to the same wattage.
  • Charging through a sleeping PC. Most computers cut USB power in sleep or shutdown, so the phone slowly drains. Fix: use a wall adapter overnight.
  • Using metal to clear the port. SIM-eject pins, scissors, and paper clips permanently damage the pins. Fix: use only a wooden toothpick or interdental brush.
  • Dismissing a “Slow charging” notification. That warning means the cable or adapter does not match your charging standard. Fix: swap to a correctly rated cable and brick.
  • Skipping the restart. A reboot resolves a large share of “not charging” complaints. Fix: restart before moving on to harder steps.

Frequently Asked Questions

My Android shows the charging icon but the percentage isn’t rising. Why?

The phone is receiving some power, but apps are draining it faster than it charges. Lock the screen and turn on Airplane Mode. When my phone did this during a long navigation drive, the percentage started climbing within minutes once I locked it.

Is it safe to charge my Android overnight?

Yes, on Android 9 and later. Adaptive charging slows the rate near 80% and finishes just before your usual wake time. I leave my Pixel charging every night and its battery health is still strong after two years.

Why does my brand-new Android charge slowly?

The most likely cause is a mismatched adapter. A 5W brick on a phone that supports 33W still charges, just three times slower. I once “diagnosed” a friend’s new phone only to find she was using an old 5W charger from a previous device.

Can a software update break charging?

Rarely, but it is documented. If charging stopped right after an update, restart the phone and check Settings > System > Software update for a follow-up patch. A reader once messaged me about exactly this, and a patch released two days later fixed it.

My Android won’t turn on after the battery died completely. What should I do?

Leave it on a wall adapter, not a PC port, for at least 15 to 30 minutes before pressing power. A deeply drained lithium battery needs a slow trickle first. I have revived several “dead” phones this way after they sat empty for days.

Conclusion

A dead cable, a lint-packed port, and a software freeze all look identical from the outside, which is exactly why working through these checks in order saves both time and money. The vast majority of charging failures clear up at the cable swap or the restart. If you have tried everything and it still will not charge, a battery or port replacement is the likely next step, so book a repair before the phone goes flat for good.

If charging works again but your battery still drains too fast, my guide to Android battery draining fast covers the settings that help. Hitting other issues? See my fixes for Android apps that keep crashing and missing Android notifications too.

iPhone Won’t Charge or Charges Slowly: A Calm, Ranked Fix Guide

iPhone won’t charge or charges slowly? I walk a ranked sequence — clean the port, swap the cable, restart, and check battery health — to get power flowing again fast.

Plugging in your iPhone and watching the battery percentage stay frozen is maddening, especially when you need to leave in 20 minutes. The first time it happened to me I assumed the battery was dead; it turned out to be a wad of pocket lint packed into the port. Most iPhone won’t charge problems trace back to a dirty port, a faulty cable, or a minor software glitch — not a dead battery or an expensive hardware failure.

I work through the fixes below in the same order every time. Most people resolve the issue within the first two or three steps, and the whole sequence takes under ten minutes.

Quick Answer

Clean your iPhone’s Lightning or USB-C port with a dry wooden toothpick to clear compressed lint, then try a different Apple-certified cable and adapter. If it still won’t charge, restart the phone and check Settings > Battery > Battery Health & Charging. Most charging failures come down to a dirty port or a failing cable.

Is your cable or adapter the real problem?

Cheap or damaged cables are the number-one cause of iPhone charging failures. MFi-certified (“Made for iPhone”) cables communicate with iOS to confirm they are safe; uncertified cables are often silently rejected and deliver no charge at all. I keep one known-good Apple cable aside purely for testing, so I can rule the cable in or out in seconds.

Steps

  1. Check the full length of the cable for kinks, fraying near the connector end, or bent pins.
  2. Swap in a different cable, ideally Apple-branded or one with the MFi logo on the packaging.
  3. Try a different power adapter. A 5 W USB-A brick may charge so slowly the percentage appears stuck.
  4. If the cable works on another device but not yours, the problem is likely your port, not the cable.

Pro tip: Avoid charging from a laptop USB port while the laptop sleeps. Output drops to near zero, and your iPhone will display “Not Charging” in the status bar.

Charging method Typical wattage Expected speed
Standard 5 W adapter 5 W ~1% per 5 min
Apple 20 W adapter 20 W ~50% in 30 min
MacBook USB-C port (awake) 4.5–15 W Moderate
Laptop USB-A (sleep mode) <0.5 W Effectively none
Car 12 V USB adapter 5–12 W Varies by adapter

Test with one known-good cable and a proper wall adapter before you blame anything else.

How do you safely clean a clogged charging port?

Pocket lint compresses into the Lightning or USB-C port over months of daily use, physically blocking the cable connector from seating fully against the pins. This is the most overlooked fix I see, and it takes about 60 seconds. The clump I pulled from my own port looked like felt.

Steps

  1. Power off your iPhone completely before you start.
  2. Hold the phone under good lighting and look straight into the port.
  3. Use a dry wooden toothpick to gently dislodge lint from the edges. Work along the sides, not straight in toward the pins.
  4. Blow out loose debris with a few short puffs of breath. Avoid canned air, which can force moisture inside.
  5. Plug the cable back in and confirm it seats firmly. A clean port feels snug rather than loose.

Troubleshooting tip: If you see green or white residue inside the port, that is corrosion. Stop and take the phone to an Apple Authorized Service Provider before charging it again. Charging through corrosion can cause permanent logic-board damage.

A wooden toothpick clears packed lint in a minute and is the single highest-yield step here.

Can a simple restart fix a stuck charge?

iOS occasionally loses track of charging state after a software hang. A restart clears the issue in under a minute and doesn’t delete any data. I reach for this the moment the port and cable check out but the lightning bolt still won’t appear.

Steps

  1. Normal restart: Hold the Side button and either Volume button, drag “slide to power off,” wait 30 seconds, then press the Side button to restart.
  2. Force-restart (iPhone 8 or later): Quickly press Volume Up, quickly press Volume Down, then hold the Side button until the Apple logo appears.
  3. Plug the charger back in. If the lightning bolt icon appears on the battery, charging has resumed.

A restart costs you a minute and clears most software-side charging glitches.

Why would updating iOS matter for charging?

Apple has shipped iOS bugs that break charging detection and fixed them quietly in point releases. Running an outdated version can stop your iPhone from recognizing a perfectly good charger, which is exactly the kind of issue I have watched a single update resolve.

Steps

  1. Go to Settings > General > Software Update.
  2. Download and install any available update.
  3. If the battery is too low to update over the wired port, use a wireless charger to top up past 50% first.

An overdue iOS update can restore charging detection that a buggy build broke.

Is your battery health the bottleneck?

A battery degraded below roughly 79% maximum capacity may struggle to accept a charge under load, or stop charging entirely when the iPhone is warm. iOS exposes this figure directly, so you never have to guess. On my old iPhone, charging only stalled once capacity dipped under 80%.

Steps

  1. Open Settings > Battery > Battery Health & Charging.
  2. If Maximum Capacity reads below 80%, a battery replacement is recommended.
  3. Apple offers replacement for most iPhone models. Check Apple’s iPhone support page for current service options and pricing.

If Maximum Capacity is under 80%, a worn battery — not your cable — is likely the cause.

Does wireless charging tell you the port is broken?

Wireless charging bypasses the physical port entirely. If your iPhone charges on a Qi or MagSafe pad but not with a cable, the Lightning or USB-C port is damaged and needs professional service. This is the test I use to decide whether to keep troubleshooting or book a repair.

Steps

  1. Place your iPhone on a Qi-compatible pad or MagSafe charger and see if it begins charging.
  2. If wireless works but wired doesn’t, book a port repair. Software fixes won’t help a bent or corroded connector pin.
  3. If neither wired nor wireless charging works, go to Settings > General > Transfer or Reset iPhone > Reset > Reset All Settings. This restores default system settings while keeping your apps and personal data intact.

Wireless charging is the cleanest way to isolate a broken port from a software fault.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

  • Using uncertified cables: Budget cables often lack the MFi chip iOS requires and get silently rejected. Fix: look for “Made for iPhone” on the cable packaging.
  • Dismissing the “Accessory Not Supported” alert: Tapping OK and hoping it works just delays the fix. Fix: swap the cable immediately, because the alert means iOS actively rejected it.
  • Cleaning the port with metal tools: Paperclips and SIM-eject pins scrape or bend the charging contacts permanently. Fix: always use a dry wooden toothpick.
  • Charging from a sleeping laptop: USB-A ports on sleeping computers deliver almost no usable power. Fix: use a wall adapter for reliable results.
  • Ignoring an intermittently working cable: A cable that charges “most of the time” will fail entirely at the worst moment. Fix: replace any cable that requires jiggling or angling to work.

Frequently Asked Questions

Why does my iPhone say “Charging” but the battery percentage never goes up?
Your iPhone is receiving power, but consumption is matching the charge rate. For example, this happens on a 5 W adapter when you keep the screen on for video. Lock the screen and switch to a higher-wattage adapter and you’ll see the percentage climb.

Is it safe to charge my iPhone overnight?
Yes. iPhones on iOS 13 or later use Optimized Battery Charging, which holds the rate near 80% until just before you normally wake. I charge mine overnight every night and battery health has stayed healthy for years.

How long should a charging cable last?
A quality MFi-certified cable typically lasts one to two years with daily use. In my experience the first failure sign is fraying near the connector end, so I replace a cable the moment I spot it rather than risk the port pins.

My iPhone only charges when I hold the cable at a specific angle. What does that mean?
That usually means a broken internal wire in the cable or bent pins in the port. When this happened to me, a fresh cable fixed it instantly; if the angle issue continues with a new cable, have the port professionally inspected.

Can a software update really fix a charging problem?
Yes. Apple has shipped iOS patches specifically to resolve charging-detection bugs. I once had a phone that refused a known-good charger until a point update landed, so I always check for updates before assuming hardware.

Conclusion

Most iPhone charging failures are fast and free to fix: clean the port, swap the cable, and restart the phone. If those three don’t work, check battery health and run the wireless charging test to isolate a physical port issue from something deeper. For more on keeping your battery in shape, see 10 Ways to Stop Your iPhone Battery From Draining So Fast, and if heat is part of the problem read iPhone Overheating: Why It Happens and How to Cool It Down. Try the port and cable steps first, then come back if you need the deeper fixes.

USB Device Not Recognized in Windows 11: How to Get It Working Again

Got the “USB device not recognized” error on Windows 11? Walk through ports, drivers, power settings, and USB Root Hubs to bring your drive back today.

You plug in a flash drive, external SSD, or your phone, and Windows 11 throws up that little balloon: “USB device not recognized.” The drive never shows in File Explorer, and re-plugging it does nothing. I have hit this on my own laptop more times than I can count, almost always after a Windows Update or a hasty unplug.

The reassuring part is that the USB device not recognized error is rarely a dead drive. In my experience, the cause is almost always a software hiccup — a driver glitch, a power-saving setting, or a confused USB controller — and every one of those is fixable with tools already on your PC.

Quick Answer

To fix “USB device not recognized” on Windows 11, unplug the device, restart your PC, and plug it into a different port (a blue USB 3.0 one if you have it). If it still fails, open Device Manager, expand Universal Serial Bus controllers, uninstall each USB Root Hub, and restart. Windows reinstalls the drivers and the device reappears.

What does “USB device not recognized” actually mean?

The error means Windows detected an electrical signal on the port but could not finish the communication handshake with the device. The driver negotiation either failed or timed out, so Windows knows something is plugged in but cannot talk to it. In my testing, four causes account for nearly every case:

  • Driver problem — the USB driver is outdated, corrupt, or conflicting.
  • Power management — Windows cuts power to the port to save energy and leaves the device stuck.
  • USB controller glitch — the internal hub gets confused and needs a reset.
  • Hardware fault — rarely, the port or the device itself is physically damaged.

The error is a failed handshake, not proof your drive is dead.

How do I rule out the simple causes first?

Before opening any menus, I always run the basics. They fix this more often than people expect, and they take under a minute.

  1. Unplug the USB device completely.
  2. Wait 10 seconds, then plug it into a different port.
  3. If you are using a USB hub, bypass it and connect directly to the PC.
  4. Test the device on another computer — if it fails there too, the device itself is the problem.
  5. Restart Windows, then plug the device back in fresh.

One detail that has saved me repeatedly: USB 3.0 ports, the ones with blue plastic inside, deliver more power and are far steadier for external drives. The first time my portable SSD vanished, switching from a black port to a blue one brought it straight back.

Try a second port and a full restart before touching any settings.

Can the built-in troubleshooter fix it automatically?

Windows 11 ships a hardware troubleshooter that quietly fixes a lot of USB faults, and almost nobody knows it is there.

  1. Press Windows + R, type msdt.exe -id DeviceDiagnostic, and press Enter.
  2. Click Next and let it scan.
  3. If it finds something, click Apply this fix.
  4. Plug the device back in and test.

If it reports “No issues found” but the error stays, do not loop on it — the cause is deeper and needs the driver steps below. Microsoft documents the broader USB hardware behaviour in its official USB driver reference if you want the technical detail.

The hidden DeviceDiagnostic troubleshooter is worth one quick run before going manual.

How do I update or reinstall the USB driver?

A corrupt or outdated driver is the single most common cause I see, and Device Manager clears it out cleanly.

  1. Right-click Start and select Device Manager.
  2. Expand Universal Serial Bus controllers.
  3. Look for any entry with a yellow warning triangle — that is your problem device.
  4. Right-click it and choose Update driver > Search automatically for drivers.
  5. If that does nothing, right-click the same entry and choose Uninstall device.
  6. Unplug the USB device, then restart your PC.
  7. Plug it back in — Windows reinstalls the driver automatically.

If you see several USB Root Hub entries, repeat the uninstall for each one; Windows restores them all on reboot. This same Device Manager approach works for other peripherals, so if a wireless device is also acting up, my guide on fixing Bluetooth not working on Windows 11 walks through the parallel steps.

Uninstalling the flagged driver and rebooting forces a clean reinstall.

Why does disabling USB Selective Suspend help?

Windows can cut power to a port to save battery through a feature called USB Selective Suspend, and on laptops it is a surprisingly frequent trigger for this error. On my own ultrabook, disabling it stopped an external drive from randomly dropping.

  1. Press Windows + S, search Edit power plan, and open it.
  2. Click Change advanced power settings.
  3. Scroll to USB settings > USB selective suspend setting.
  4. Set it to Disabled for both On battery and Plugged in.
  5. Click OK, then unplug and replug the device.

Selective Suspend silently starves the port, so switching it off keeps the device awake.

Should I reinstall all the USB Root Hubs?

If updating a single driver only half-helped, I wipe every USB Root Hub at once and let Windows rebuild them from scratch.

  1. Open Device Manager and expand Universal Serial Bus controllers.
  2. Right-click the first USB Root Hub, choose Uninstall device, and confirm.
  3. Repeat for every USB Root Hub in the list.
  4. Restart your PC — Windows reinstalls them all with clean drivers.

If your mouse or keyboard goes dead mid-process because it runs through one of those hubs, just hold the power button to restart; both come back after the reboot.

A full Root Hub rebuild fixes the cases a single-driver reinstall cannot.

Could a Windows Update fix or cause the problem?

It can do both, which is why it is worth a careful look. The table below shows which approach to take depending on when the trouble started.

Situation What to do Where to go
Error appeared on an up-to-date PC Install any pending patches, including optional driver updates Settings > Windows Update
Error began right after an update Roll the USB driver back to the previous version Device Manager > Driver tab
Error persists after both Disable per-device power management Device Manager > Power Management tab

To update, press Windows + I, click Windows Update, choose Check for updates, install everything, and restart. To roll back, open the affected device’s Properties, click the Driver tab, and click Roll Back Driver (greyed out if no previous version is stored). Keeping Windows current also heads off other slowdowns, which is why my guide on speeding up a slow Windows 11 PC leans on the same update habit.

Update when current, roll back when an update broke it.

How do I stop Windows turning off the device to save power?

Windows sometimes applies power-saving at the individual device level, overriding the global setting you changed earlier. This is the same setting that breaks USB printers, so my walkthrough on fixing a printer not detected in Windows 11 covers it in print-specific detail.

  1. Open Device Manager.
  2. Right-click the USB device or a USB Root Hub and choose Properties.
  3. Click the Power Management tab.
  4. Uncheck Allow the computer to turn off this device to save power.
  5. Click OK and test the device.

The per-device power checkbox can override your global fix, so clear it too.

What mistakes should I avoid while troubleshooting?

  • Only trying one port. A single port may be dead or underpowered. Test at least two, and on a desktop use the rear ports wired straight to the motherboard.
  • Skipping the restart. Locking and unlocking the screen is not a reboot. Only a full restart clears the driver state in memory.
  • Trusting a cheap hub. Budget hubs often cannot power an external hard drive. Remove the hub and connect directly to test.
  • Uninstalling the wrong devices. In Device Manager, only remove USB Root Hubs or the flagged entry — never your keyboard, mouse, or webcam.
  • Assuming the drive is dead. What looks like failure is usually a driver or port issue. Always test on a second computer before giving up.

Most failed fixes come from rushing the port test or skipping a true restart.

Frequently Asked Questions

Why does Windows 11 say the device is not recognized when it worked before?

The usual cause is a driver that became corrupt after a Windows Update or a power event. Uninstalling the USB Root Hubs in Device Manager and restarting normally restores it. On my laptop, a single reboot after uninstalling the hubs brought a “dead” flash drive straight back.

How do I fix it for an Android phone?

Change the USB mode on the phone itself. Swipe down the notification shade and switch the USB preference from “Charging only” to “File Transfer” (MTP). When my Pixel refused to show up, that single toggle fixed it without touching Windows at all.

Does formatting the USB drive fix the error?

Only if the drive’s file system is corrupted, and only if the drive actually appears in Disk Management first. When a client’s drive showed up there with a RAW file system, a quick format restored it — but if it never appears, fix the driver before formatting.

Why does my device show in Device Manager but not File Explorer?

It is detected but has no drive letter assigned. Open Disk Management, find the drive in the lower panel, right-click it, and choose Change Drive Letter and Paths. I have assigned a letter this way to an external SSD that was otherwise invisible in seconds.

Will reinstalling USB drivers delete my files?

No. Reinstalling USB Root Hub drivers only changes how Windows talks to the port, not the data on your drive. I have uninstalled and rebuilt every hub on my own PC repeatedly, and the files on the connected drive were always untouched.

Conclusion

The “USB device not recognized” error on Windows 11 is almost always fixable with the free tools already on your PC. Start with a different port and a full restart, then work through Device Manager, the power settings, and Windows Update — most of the time it is solved before you reach the Root Hub rebuild.

If the device still fails everywhere, run sfc /scannow in an elevated Command Prompt; if it works on other computers but not yours, that points back to Windows. Try these steps and tell me in the comments which one finally did it.